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MY TRIP TO IRELAND, NORTHERN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND

In October of 2006, my sister was married in Ireland. Following that event, she and her husband traveled through various portions of Ireland, Northern Ireland and Scotland. I was invited along to attend the wedding and act as event photographer. Also attending the trip were our parents and three friends of my sister and her husband (one of whom traveled with us and performed the wedding ceremony - the other two travelled as a separate couple).

The trip started on October 12th and lasted a little over 2 weeks. Except for a few nights in Edinburgh and Inverness (both located in Scotland), we didn't stay in any one place for more than one night.

We traveled by van and stayed mostly in Bed and Breakfasts (which are widely available like hotels and motels are here).

On October 19th, we traded in our first vehicle, traveled by commuter plane to Scotland and rented another van to continue our tour.

From that point, we toured many sights in Scotland until we flew home from Edinburgh early in the morning on October 28th.

Below is a complete description of the events and sights from the trip. Larger versions of most of the photos are available by clicking on them. The map locations are indicated in white.

Be patient. The page and some of the images may take extra time to load.

Day 1: Something Old, Something New; Something Borrowed as We Blew Into Town

We took a 7:15PM flight out of Newark, New Jersey. Due to the time change, we arrived at Shannon Airport at about 6:30AM, UK time the following morning.

The flight lasted roughly 6 hours and was quite smooth the whole way. We received dinner, breakfast and snacks in between. The movie was somewhat unfortunate as the chosen title was "Hoot". I opted to listen to jazz music from among the in-flight selections and alternated between reading my book, working on my web site and viewing a part of a movie on my laptop.

In the past, I haven't been a fan of Continental Airlines, but they seem to have really come together as an excellent international airline. The food was quite good, the flights between the US and UK were both on time and audio headsets were provided free of charge (and we were allowed to keep them for future use, as well). I would certainly choose them again.

Upon arrival in Ireland, we retrieved our luggage and headed to the Hertz office across the parking lot to rent a van for the six of us that would be traveling as a group. We ended up with the vehicle oddity known as the Ford Transit. While it was excellent on diesel fuel and offered plenty of space inside, the van was underpowered and it bobbed and weaved on the mountain roads. The automatic transmission shifted like student driver learning to operate a manual transmission. However, we missed the dual sliding doors later in our trip when we obtained another vehicle in Scotland. We certainly didn't miss the horrible sliding side windows, neither of which opened or closed easily. The picture above is the Ford Transit in question parked at our first lodgings. We didn't get a chance to snap one prior to that.

Once we had our luggage and ourselves stowed in the van, we headed off toward the Bed and Breakfast we were scheduled to stay at. We passed Bunratty Castle on the way there, but were a bit early for the tour and continued to the B&B. When we arrived, we realized we were a bit early for check in and it appeared the previous guests were still occupying the rooms. So, we headed back down the road to the castle, which had opened by then.

Bunratty Castle is beautifully restored. Many of the furnishings inside are from the period in which the structure was built. As a result, taking pictures indoors was a bit of a challenge since flash photography is not allowed. This is to protect the many portraits and wall hangings from degrading. A few castles later in the trip didn't allow any photography at all indoors. In addition, unlike many of the castles we visited, you can actually go up to the rooftop parapets and take in the view. We often found these areas closed to the public in other locations. The view is quite expansive since there really aren't any older, larger trees to speak of. Literally, Ireland was deforested when many of its castles were built and inhabited (mostly for firewood) and only recently have efforts been made to repopulate the forests. As a result, many of the trees that do exist are relatively young. Some less populated areas are still quite barren.

Below are some pictures from Bunratty Castle. Click on an image to view a larger version:

In addition to the castle, there is also a folk park on the property. This area includes a small number of shops, a church, gardens and facilities for various farm animals.

Below are some pictures I took of the park section at Bunratty Castle. Click on an image to view a larger version:

During our tour, we learned a few interesting bits of trivia about the castle. The major thing we learned is why things were built the way they were.

It was amazing how much of an understanding the engineers of the time had about defensive structures. Even simple structural elements all had their reasons for their particular design. For example:

- Doorways were often quite small in castles. While people were a bit smaller back then, they were built even a bit too small for them. The reason for this was for self defense. By confining an enemy coming through your doorway, it gave you the advantage of being able to pick them off one by one as they entered. Anyone entering would find it hard to have weapons ready when ducking through a doorway.

- Entrances often had several upward steps that needed to be traversed in order to enter. Again, this was a defence mechanism. It essentially provided high ground for the castle inhabitants and slowed down the forward progress of the enemy (who would be wearing heavy armor).

- Circular stairways were often built in a counter-clockwise direction. An enemy attacking from below would find it difficult to draw and swing a sword with this configuration. However, the inhabitants above would find it easy to swing a weapon at those attempting to come up the stairs. Of course, that assumed a right-handed attacker...

- While castles might have some larger windows, homes and other structures under its protection often had very small ones. This was due to a tax that was placed on the size of windows. This is where the phrase "stealing our daylight" actually comes from, since people were forced to use smaller windows (creating darker rooms) to avoid excessive taxes.

The day continues....

After our tour of Bunratty Castle, we headed back to the B&B to check in and get rested up for the wedding ceremony. Our hostess was extremely friendly. She really made us feel at home in what was essentially her home. It's too bad she's selling the place, though. It seems she's getting married herself and plans to move to her husband's farm.

Look at the photo closely and keep in mind it's October. It seems folks in the UK are a bit more warm blooded that we are because everywhere we went the windows were always open - even on the few cold days we experienced. Of course, none of the windows really seemed all that substantial, anyway. As a result, closing them probably would keep any real cold weather out. However, the oddest part was the lack of window screens. This came into play later on in the trip.

We were scheduled to attend the mediaeval banquet at Knappogue Castle that evening and my sister had made arrangements to be married there about 30 minutes prior to that event. After a short rest and time to shower and get dressed up, it was time to conquer another castle.

Upon arrival at Knappogue, we took advantage of the remaining sunlight and some extra time to take photos of the wedding party. Several attendees, including my sister and her husband, wore period dress for the event. Even one of their friends, who actually performed the ceremony, got into the spirit by sporting a monks robe.

Once allowed indoors, we were given a whirlwind tour of various rooms that might be suitable for the ceremony. Our generous and friendly host took us through every room she thought might suit our needs. We actually got to see parts of the castle few people get a view of. We settled on a room that boasted a beautiful stained glass window. It was actually that window that provided the bulk of the room lighting. As a result, the ceremony moved quickly as the sunlight entering the room began to fade along with our available time. However, the event didn't seem rushed. It was a simple ceremony minus a lot of the extra elements many weddings can contain. Both bride and groom read their own vows in order to personalize the event.

Immediately after the ceremony, there was a bit more time for pictures as other guests attending the castle banquet arrived. Once we finished, it was time to join everyone downstairs.

At the banquet, there were 4 kings and queens crowned, including the new couple. In addition to the food, there was plenty of entertainment from a talented cast of characters. We experienced a full evening of singing, dancing, joke telling and references to our eating utensils being "weapons". Ample amounts of wine and mead were made available. Did I mention there were was a lot of wine and mead? By the time we left at the end of the evening, we were more than ready for a good nights sleep.

Instead, we headed to a pub called "Durty Nelly's" to have a drink or two. The pub is located in the shadow of Bunratty Castle, and was built in 1620. For most of the evening, we were entertained by a couple of guys playing the banjo and an old upright piano. We stayed until the place closed - at which time were kicked out more politely than I've ever been kicked out of anywhere.

At that point we made our way to the B&B, where we parked a 9 passenger van in the most interior spot inside the smallest parking lot any of us had ever been in. Of course, each successive night, we parked in the smallest parking lot any of us had ever parked in. It seems the lots at the B&Bs continued to accommodate the same number of vehicles on ever decreasing real estate. This continued all the way to the final night when we stayed at a B&B that had no parking to speak of at all. Instead, being late Friday night, we parked in the lot of the school next door. The lodgings before that required at least one guest's vehicle to remain on the street overnight. Thankfully, we had a smaller vehicle by the time we reached some of the tighter locations.

Below are some pictures of Knappogue Castle, Durty Nelly's and the evening's events: